Where to Get Pet Rats (Good vs. Bad Sources)
- Moomoo Rattery
- Feb 25, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: Jun 3
What’s an Ethical Rat Breeder?
Is there a difference between pet store rats and breeder rats? Are all breeders the same? Let’s talk about good sources for pet rats.
{Links to breeder and rescue directories for the U.S. are at the bottom.}
Preface
I want to start by saying that rats are the best pets I’ve ever owned. I’ve had about nine different species of pets including dogs and cats, and I still prefer the company of rats over any other animal. They’re incredibly loyal, smart, empathetic, and affectionate. They learn their names, come when called, are very clean animals, do tricks, and give kisses like dogs do. This is where the phrase “pocket puppy” comes from. They come in so many colors and varieties, and every single rat has a unique personality. They live an average of 2 to 3 years and are so full of love that whole time.
Good health and temperament is more likely in rats from good sources. My goal as a breeder is to help make that experience happen for every adopter, whether they get rats from me or another source. So let’s talk about pet rat sources.
Why Pet Stores/Feeders are a bad source
Whatever you choose to do, please don’t support rodent mills that supply pet stores. Remember the “don’t support puppy mills” message? Rodents are treated just as badly, if not worse, at commercial pet stores and feeder stores. Rats are typically bred at these places without any concern for genetic health or temperament, and bred for quantity— not quality. They may seem friendly at first, but hormonal aggression can show up between 4 to 12 months of age. A bite from a rat can cause nerve damage or transmit diseases. Pet store and feeder rats are typically unsocialized and need extra time and attention to bond to. Rats already live short lives, and you want to get the most out of their short life spans by getting a socialized healthy rat that’s easy to bond to and has good health genetics.
The conditions rats in rodent mills are bred in have no enrichment, are overcrowded, and healthy rats are often stepping over sick ones. Males can have wounds from constant breeding that easily get infected. Some people think they’re rescuing rats from these places, but by buying them, you’re giving money to the system and making room for more. If you buy the last two in the tank, they’ll breed 10 more to replace them as an average litter is over 10. The rats are also fed the cheapest food available, which doesn’t meet their nutritional needs and causes health issues throughout their lives.
It is common for workers at pet stores to misgender rats and sell you a male and female, and end up with a surprise litter weeks after adoption. They also are frequently taken from mom too young leading to nutritional deficiencies and stunted growth and development. You also don’t know how old the rats really are or whether they’re carrying any diseases. Good breeders test for infectious diseases and take their rats to the vet when needed. Also, pet store and feeder rats usually aren’t handled much, so they’re often scared of humans. A fearful rat might bite or escape and hide somewhere in your house.
So where should you get rats from?
Look for a local rescue or an ethical breeder. Even though I’m a breeder, I support rescues because every animal deserves a good home. In New England, there’s Mainely Rat Rescue. Some animal shelters have small animal sections that include rats. The great thing about rescues is that they’ll often tell you about the rats’ personalities and any health issues. Sometimes they even have babies for adoption. Some rats may have behavioral issues and need extra bonding time, so if you’re patient and want to make a difference, rescuing is a great option. Facebook also has local rat or small animal rehoming pages you can join.
Distinguishing Ethical Breeders From Backyard Breeders
If you want rats that are more likely to live longer, healthier lives with fewer behavioral issues, finding an ethical breeder is the way to go. But just being listed with AFRMA or NFRS doesn’t mean a breeder is ethical. It’s up to you to research and ask questions. Some breeders focus only on color or profit, and those rats may be genetically prone to aggression or health problems. There are many backyard and novice breeders out there who don’t have the best interest of the rats or adopters in mind.
Here are some things to ask your breeder:
Do they have an application process?
If a breeder asks questions and wants to know about you and your setup, that’s a good sign. Giving animals to anyone with money is a red flag.
Do they handle their rats?
Experienced breeders are able to produce friendly rats through selective breeding and don’t handle rats daily from birth. Occasional handling, especially to conduct temperent testing, is important to ensure they are healthy and developing properly. A breeder that never handles their rats from birth to adoption may miss health issues. It’s normal for breeders to not handle them until they begin “temperament testing” and then handle them often to expose them to scenarios they may encounter when adopted (children, other pets, unfamiliar rats, unfamiliar humans, handling, etc.) from that point until adoption. You also don’t want a breeder who over handles their rats, like daily from birth, because that masks temperament and they can revert back to poor genetic temperament after adoption.
Do they charge different prices for different varieties?
If they’re upcharging for every little thing, they’re likely in it for profit. Some exceptions are genes that are truly rare or difficult to breed. These include but aren’t limited to: dwarfs, harley, werewolves (list depends on availability on region). Charging extra for varieties, colors, and markings that aren’t rare or high demand can be a bad sign. A fair price for a common rat is usually between $15 and $60. Rare genetics are near $100.
Do they sell rats under 6 weeks or individually?
Rats should never be sold alone or before 6 weeks old. Even if you already have rats, new rats should be quarantined for at least 2 weeks, and isolation that long can cause behavior issues. Under 6 weeks old, they are still learning proper manners from adults and may not develop properly when weaned too early. You want your rats to be social with both humans and other rats at adoption to reduce risk of issues in their lives with humans and introductions to other rats. Most breeders adopt out at 8-12 weeks but 6 is the bare minimum.
Do they health test their rats?
Every U.S. breeder has access to disease testing through labs. AFRMA recommends testing for viruses and bacteria that can affect both rats and humans.
From AFRMA:
“Due to the many zoonotic viruses and bacteria… breeders should test their rats (and mice)… as some diseases have no symptoms.”
This gives peace of mind to those who have children under 5 years old or if you or any housemates are immunocompromised. Risk of disease transmission is lower for healthy individuals and older children.
A lot of respiratory diseases are extremely contagious and possibly fatal between rats so preventing disease is essential.
Is the rattery closed to the public?
A “closed rattery” doesn’t allow in-person visits to reduce disease risk. Breeders who are serious about preventing disease in their colony operate a closed rattery and send plenty of pictures and videos of available rats.
Do they treat for parasites before sending rats home?
This one’s optional, but it’s a good sign if the breeder cares about preventing mites, fleas, lice, and ticks. Mites are microscopic and extremely common for rats and can easily pick them up from bedding or food, so monthly preventatives can save you a trip to the vet. It’s becoming more common for breeders to give monthly preventative treatment.
Do the breeding females show maternal aggression? Have any males from their lines exhibited hormonal aggression?
If the breeder has had to neuter males or deal with aggressive bucks that were bred recently, that’s a red flag. Hormonal aggression is genetic and can show up between 4 and 12 months. Females who are aggressive while nursing may pass aggressive traits to their lineage.
Have other adopters reported aggression or skittish behavior?
Skittish rats take more time to bond and are more likely to bite or escape. Ask for videos of the rats being handled. It’s best to go with a breeder that has public reviews you can read like on Facebook pages. Happy well-bred rats are confident and curious.
Do the rats look healthy?
Red discharge (porphyrin) on the nose or eyes is a sign of illness. Rats should have clean coats, be alert and active, and not look underweight or injured. Wounds can be a sign of bad housing or aggressive breeding setups.
What’s their setup like?
If you’re avoiding pet stores because of poor conditions, make sure breeders aren’t using similar ones. Some dual-purpose breeders also breed feeders and may not prioritize quality. Rats need enrichment, minimum 2 cubic ft per adult, ability to burrow, and time outside the cage. Racks with nothing but bedding, food, and water are not enough. Ask for pictures. Good breeders usually ask to see your setup too.
How long do their rats live?
They should be able to tell you what to expect from their lines in terms of lifespan and any known health issues. You want to hear that their rats live to old age and illness is rare. While ethical breeding can’t prevent every ailment, breeders should be proactive about preventing hereditary problems and transparent about their line origin and history.
This may seem like a lot, and I know I’ve pointed out a lot of negatives, but rats from good sources are some of the most loyal, affectionate pets you’ll ever have. I’m passionate about helping people avoid heartbreak. When rats are bred right, they can live over 3 years, adjust to new environments and bond to humans quickly, get along with other rats, and pass peacefully from old age. I want everyone to experience what it’s like to be fully trusted by a prey animal. Good luck finding your new best friends!
Breeder Directories:
Rescue Directory:
コメント